Hopefully today we are heading back to Phoenix from San Diego, our newly- Mike Hynson autographed “The Endless Summer” poster safely in hand, joining that of director Bruce Brown and and his co-star, Robert August.
Y’all probably are asking, “what’s the big deal about a stupid autograph, let along driving five hours to get one. You have to understand, ever since my brother Mark and I first saw “The Endless Summer” some 35 years ago, I’ve loved the movie, not just for its romantic portrayal of a simpler time when searching for that perfect wave year-round meant summer, sun, and girls (even when Massachusetts was cold and snowy), but for the whole metaphysical idea of being present when wind, sea, and sun join together for that perfect moment in one’s own presence. I always “got” the idea of “The Endless Summer, even if I knew I would never experience that moment for myself.
Still, not in a million years did I ever think that some day I’d be living in Arizona with palm trees and a swimming pool in the back yard – I guess you have to find your own “endless summer” in whatever way God presents it to you.
Here’s a wonderful clip from “The Endless Summer” where Hynson and his surf partner August find that “perfect wave” – at Cape St. Francis, South Africa. A wonderful and mesmerizing clip. Enjoy!
In 1966 I wrote the following as my ambition in my senior yearbook “To surf all morning, drag race all afternoon and dance all night”..now that I am in my early 60’s that still holds true. I have watched both Endless Summers a gazillion times and really need to get them on dvd. Love them both and imagine myself “their” surfer girl. Surf music and all that goes with it still remains in my heart and dreams as living the perfect life. I cannot thank you enough, Doug, for getting a signed copy of the book…it will be lovingly and happily received. You two are just the BEST. Love, Jana
Comment by Jana — August 16, 2010 @ 5:38 am
Believe me, Jana, it was our pleasure. I’ll get the book off to you this week!
Comment by The Great White Shank — August 16, 2010 @ 7:10 pm